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One learned that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if made of wood, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

400g waxy potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml mild oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, diced small
½ tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to the prepared skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Beat all the sauce elements in a container. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.